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| Frequently Asked Tech Questions |
| Answers to real questions we got about choppin' and other Bitter stuff posted in no 'ticular order other than for Big Daddy's M.F.-ing convenience. WARNING: Contains a few sad-ass attempts at selling some of our crap... |
Q: I would really appreciate any information you could provide me on the [car] rim you used
and anything helpful on manufacturing a hub.
and anything helpful on manufacturing a hub.
Q: The frame I am going to build myself from the ground up. It will have a 6" up and 4" out
stretch with maybe 38 degrees in the neck. Please let me know if I'll need any degree in the
trees for this.
A: RE: degreed trees - the rule of thumb I go by is less than 40 degrees rake typically does
not require degreed trees or cups. If the neck goes on the frame straight, this bike should
handle pretty well at low speeds and be rock solid at highway speeds. I built a 37 degree
with 4" over forks that I think handles like a gazelle.
stretch with maybe 38 degrees in the neck. Please let me know if I'll need any degree in the
trees for this.
A: RE: degreed trees - the rule of thumb I go by is less than 40 degrees rake typically does
not require degreed trees or cups. If the neck goes on the frame straight, this bike should
handle pretty well at low speeds and be rock solid at highway speeds. I built a 37 degree
with 4" over forks that I think handles like a gazelle.
Q: Also wanting a 3" BDL primary drive. I need to know if it's possible to hook up this
primary drive with a right side secondary chain drive.
A: I don't believe that the RSD will limit or affect what kind of primary you can use. The
main difference is that the mainshaft goes out the right side to the drive sprocket instead on
through the drive sprocket on the left side to the primary drive.
primary drive with a right side secondary chain drive.
A: I don't believe that the RSD will limit or affect what kind of primary you can use. The
main difference is that the mainshaft goes out the right side to the drive sprocket instead on
through the drive sprocket on the left side to the primary drive.
Q: What head tube size should I be looking for when I start scrounging for a Girder, I sure
haven't found anyone building them new.
A: If you are going to build a H-D style bike, you should look for something with a 1"
steering stem. However, if you find something smaller, there may be a chance that it could
be machined out to accept the steering stems I make. I thought Donnie Smith was
re-releasing his girder front end?
haven't found anyone building them new.
A: If you are going to build a H-D style bike, you should look for something with a 1"
steering stem. However, if you find something smaller, there may be a chance that it could
be machined out to accept the steering stems I make. I thought Donnie Smith was
re-releasing his girder front end?
Q: Where is the cheapest place I can buy a sprotor [like the one on Big Daddy's Dub] not
chrome, just plain.
A: We sell one for $522 that is polished stainless for 3/4 axles ($225 cheaper than the big
names)
chrome, just plain.
A: We sell one for $522 that is polished stainless for 3/4 axles ($225 cheaper than the big
names)
Q: I came across a 93 softail frame that had been raked 50 degrees. The owner says it
takes an 18" over front end. My guess is that is one Hell of a radical ride and not very easy
to deal with. How accurate am I ?
A: If this set-up were not corrected for proper trail, it would have a tendency to be very
unstable at low speeds (front-end flop) like taking off from a stop light in a turn, but would be
rock solid at high speeds (assuming that the neck was put back on straight - not a good
assumption in most cases, though). If someone really knew what they were doing, trail
could be corrected so that this would not be that difficult to handle.
takes an 18" over front end. My guess is that is one Hell of a radical ride and not very easy
to deal with. How accurate am I ?
A: If this set-up were not corrected for proper trail, it would have a tendency to be very
unstable at low speeds (front-end flop) like taking off from a stop light in a turn, but would be
rock solid at high speeds (assuming that the neck was put back on straight - not a good
assumption in most cases, though). If someone really knew what they were doing, trail
could be corrected so that this would not be that difficult to handle.
Q: I grabbed a 1/2"-13 coarse threaded rod to try in the legs of my old swap meet springer;
it fits but it's a little loose, you don't think it could be metric do you? I cranked on it and I
couldn't get it to come out, but it moved around in the threads. Any ideas on what size I
should try next????
A: Anything is possible. Could be similar diameter, but fine thread or some special thread
pitch - it is possible to put any thread pitch on any diameter in a lathe whether or not you
could actually get a bolt or nut to fit it anywhere in the free world. Quickest way to know for
sure without risking any more damage is to borrow a thread pitch gauge.
it fits but it's a little loose, you don't think it could be metric do you? I cranked on it and I
couldn't get it to come out, but it moved around in the threads. Any ideas on what size I
should try next????
A: Anything is possible. Could be similar diameter, but fine thread or some special thread
pitch - it is possible to put any thread pitch on any diameter in a lathe whether or not you
could actually get a bolt or nut to fit it anywhere in the free world. Quickest way to know for
sure without risking any more damage is to borrow a thread pitch gauge.
Q: Working on the springer for my Sporty,and I need to know the diameters and lengths of
the springs of the ones you sell.
A: The lower outers are approx. 7" long and 1-9/16" inside diameter (approx. 2" o.d.). The
upper outers are 5-3/4" long and are approx. 1-1/4" inside diameter at the bottom tapering
up to about 5/8" i.d. at the top where the stabilizer goes on top.
the springs of the ones you sell.
A: The lower outers are approx. 7" long and 1-9/16" inside diameter (approx. 2" o.d.). The
upper outers are 5-3/4" long and are approx. 1-1/4" inside diameter at the bottom tapering
up to about 5/8" i.d. at the top where the stabilizer goes on top.
Q: What is the typical horse power and torque You get out of these [Flathead Power]
engines ---- Typical ------ and, also how much HP and torque with the heads flowed (IF
possible?) and other engine work done. In other words how much HP? For each cubic inch
displacement engine? 74" thru 109 and 120" displacement?
A: Flathead Power can build pretty much anything you want with regard to performance. It
just depends on your budget and need for street-ability vs. pure bulk horsepower. The
typical off-the-shelf motors are built more for reliability, street-ability and high torque (thanks
to the hemi design). For example, the 74" gets 60 HP and 70 ft/lbs torque. This would be
with a 8.5:1 compression ratio (higher comp. available).
At the other extreme, they recently shipped a 120" drag strip motor that made 153 HP at the
rear wheel on a chassis dyno. This had dual carb's and 13:1 compression but may not be
very street-able due to possible overheat and starting issues. (Thanks to FHP for answer)
engines ---- Typical ------ and, also how much HP and torque with the heads flowed (IF
possible?) and other engine work done. In other words how much HP? For each cubic inch
displacement engine? 74" thru 109 and 120" displacement?
A: Flathead Power can build pretty much anything you want with regard to performance. It
just depends on your budget and need for street-ability vs. pure bulk horsepower. The
typical off-the-shelf motors are built more for reliability, street-ability and high torque (thanks
to the hemi design). For example, the 74" gets 60 HP and 70 ft/lbs torque. This would be
with a 8.5:1 compression ratio (higher comp. available).
At the other extreme, they recently shipped a 120" drag strip motor that made 153 HP at the
rear wheel on a chassis dyno. This had dual carb's and 13:1 compression but may not be
very street-able due to possible overheat and starting issues. (Thanks to FHP for answer)
A: I know either an 8" or 7" rim will work with the 230 as I tried them both. I ended up going
with the 7" just because of frame width - not a tire limitation...
I bought the Cragar SS in both 7" and 8" widths. If you are having trouble finding these
widths, try Summit Racing. 8-1/2" might be pushing it as it was plenty tough to get the bead
to seat on the 8" - let alone 8.5"
Hub manufacture: I got a car hub (GM small 5 - but I think all Cragar SS's are unilug) from
the junkyard and cut the axle off to 2" (this will vary with back spacing of the rim). This was
the hardest part because the axle is bearing hard and my industrial hacksaw just skated on
it like ice. I ended up using a combo of plasma and abrasive cut-off wheel to get through it.
I used a 1-3/4" wide tire spacer (gives you material to make a locator ring for the sprocket)
on the sprocket side to mount it and bored it for 1" sealed bagger bearing. I bored some
billet on the lathe to slip over the axle and into the spacer. You also have to center
drill/bore the car axle to get the axle and a spacer through it, hear again, this is brutal do to
the hardness of the axle steel - be patient or you will ruin every drill bit in the house!
On the other side a lathe-turned some billet, to go out just to the inside of the Cragar
centercap and accept the aforementioned 1" axle bagger bearings (come to think of it the
whole deal would work and be easier for 3/4" axle) and welded that to the car hub.
GM-style hubs will have to be machined so that have a smooth circle without the tab deals.
You want those bearings as far apart as possible. The way I did it ended them up at appro.
9".
with the 7" just because of frame width - not a tire limitation...
I bought the Cragar SS in both 7" and 8" widths. If you are having trouble finding these
widths, try Summit Racing. 8-1/2" might be pushing it as it was plenty tough to get the bead
to seat on the 8" - let alone 8.5"
Hub manufacture: I got a car hub (GM small 5 - but I think all Cragar SS's are unilug) from
the junkyard and cut the axle off to 2" (this will vary with back spacing of the rim). This was
the hardest part because the axle is bearing hard and my industrial hacksaw just skated on
it like ice. I ended up using a combo of plasma and abrasive cut-off wheel to get through it.
I used a 1-3/4" wide tire spacer (gives you material to make a locator ring for the sprocket)
on the sprocket side to mount it and bored it for 1" sealed bagger bearing. I bored some
billet on the lathe to slip over the axle and into the spacer. You also have to center
drill/bore the car axle to get the axle and a spacer through it, hear again, this is brutal do to
the hardness of the axle steel - be patient or you will ruin every drill bit in the house!
On the other side a lathe-turned some billet, to go out just to the inside of the Cragar
centercap and accept the aforementioned 1" axle bagger bearings (come to think of it the
whole deal would work and be easier for 3/4" axle) and welded that to the car hub.
GM-style hubs will have to be machined so that have a smooth circle without the tab deals.
You want those bearings as far apart as possible. The way I did it ended them up at appro.
9".
Q: I came across a 1953 Harley panhead frame. it looked really good and since I've always
liked the older scoots anyway, I thought I might consider a bobber style. Are these older
frames able to take newer engines and trannys ?
A: Evo's are too tall by approx. 1" at the rear rocker cover to fit in this frame. The tranny
mounts will be for a 4-speed which are slightly different with regard to hole location than the
5-speeds, but I can hook you up with a plate that is designed to let you put a 5 on 4-speed
mounts.
liked the older scoots anyway, I thought I might consider a bobber style. Are these older
frames able to take newer engines and trannys ?
A: Evo's are too tall by approx. 1" at the rear rocker cover to fit in this frame. The tranny
mounts will be for a 4-speed which are slightly different with regard to hole location than the
5-speeds, but I can hook you up with a plate that is designed to let you put a 5 on 4-speed
mounts.
Q: What motor's mounts are interchangeable - some day i wold like a panhead on my frame.
A: Same motor mounts for everything from the Pan through the Evo. Knuck is the same too
except you will need the 1" spacer for the front mount that we sell.
A: Same motor mounts for everything from the Pan through the Evo. Knuck is the same too
except you will need the 1" spacer for the front mount that we sell.
Q: What transmission mounts are interchangeable?
A: Only 5 and 6 -speed and that is only cause they are in the same case, 4 vs. 5 is diff., but
don't sweat that too much cause I can get you plates to put a 4-speed on 5-speed mounts
and vice versa
A: Only 5 and 6 -speed and that is only cause they are in the same case, 4 vs. 5 is diff., but
don't sweat that too much cause I can get you plates to put a 4-speed on 5-speed mounts
and vice versa
Q: What 3'' belt drives can i use [don't want any covers] I will try to buy used, what could i
look for as problem areas? Are they as dangerous as they say?
A: I live BDL and Karata. I imagine they all come with covers now due to our sue-happy
country. Belt drive systems are basically 2 pulleys and a belt, so mainly would just want to
look for wollered splines or other obvious signs of wear. Getting one with a backing plate
will help cut down on premature engine and tranny case bearing failure. It is very
dangerous to put your hand in between the belts and the pulleys while it is running - avoid
doing this.
look for as problem areas? Are they as dangerous as they say?
A: I live BDL and Karata. I imagine they all come with covers now due to our sue-happy
country. Belt drive systems are basically 2 pulleys and a belt, so mainly would just want to
look for wollered splines or other obvious signs of wear. Getting one with a backing plate
will help cut down on premature engine and tranny case bearing failure. It is very
dangerous to put your hand in between the belts and the pulleys while it is running - avoid
doing this.
Q: did you have any trouble mounting the 230 on a car rim [tubeless]?
A: Nope, no tube and no prob yet...
A: Nope, no tube and no prob yet...
Q: How much fabrication is involved in building the springer kit? Welding, cutting that sort of
thing. I really want to buy one I just don’t know if I have the right tools and know how.
Please let me know. Oh yeah and also if you have a list of things that’s not provided in the
kit that would be good to know. Also, do you sell the downtubes with a springer package or
is that something I would have to have already?
A: The tubes and rods would need to be cut to length. The bosses for the rocker stud
mounts would need to be drilled (not freehand) and welded on. The tubes/rods would need
to be welded to the trees. The grease fittings would need to be drilled and tapped. Either
the top trees or the studs in the rigid fork tubes would need to be either drilled or drilled and
tapped for risers.
The main things that don't come in the standard kit are shoulder bolts for the rockers studs,
bronze bushings for the studs, nylon washers, grease fittings, and the material for the legs
of the forks. We would gladly sell any and all of this stuff if you want us to. We only left it
out to make the kit more affordable for the average guy who might already have access to
this stuff any way.
thing. I really want to buy one I just don’t know if I have the right tools and know how.
Please let me know. Oh yeah and also if you have a list of things that’s not provided in the
kit that would be good to know. Also, do you sell the downtubes with a springer package or
is that something I would have to have already?
A: The tubes and rods would need to be cut to length. The bosses for the rocker stud
mounts would need to be drilled (not freehand) and welded on. The tubes/rods would need
to be welded to the trees. The grease fittings would need to be drilled and tapped. Either
the top trees or the studs in the rigid fork tubes would need to be either drilled or drilled and
tapped for risers.
The main things that don't come in the standard kit are shoulder bolts for the rockers studs,
bronze bushings for the studs, nylon washers, grease fittings, and the material for the legs
of the forks. We would gladly sell any and all of this stuff if you want us to. We only left it
out to make the kit more affordable for the average guy who might already have access to
this stuff any way.
Q: I like your springer parts and kit. I have a couple of questions. What do the rockers ride
on ? A bolt or something special like a bushing? Is the 8 inch a wide glide?
A: The rockers are connected with shoulder bolt that rides on a bronze bushing (Oilite
brand or better). The 8" kit is for a narrow glide hubbed wheel and disc brakes.
on ? A bolt or something special like a bushing? Is the 8 inch a wide glide?
A: The rockers are connected with shoulder bolt that rides on a bronze bushing (Oilite
brand or better). The 8" kit is for a narrow glide hubbed wheel and disc brakes.
Q: I am splitting a rocker box and I am not sure of how to do it. I am looking for some tips or
some good pictures of some done. I have a Bridgeport to do it with, so, is there anything I
should know before I start.
A: Yes, splitting them is the easy part, especially if you got a Bridgeport mill. Welding shut
the oilways is the hard part. Unless you are an excellent TIG weldor with a big, high amp
machine or know someone who is, don't try this at home kids!
some good pictures of some done. I have a Bridgeport to do it with, so, is there anything I
should know before I start.
A: Yes, splitting them is the easy part, especially if you got a Bridgeport mill. Welding shut
the oilways is the hard part. Unless you are an excellent TIG weldor with a big, high amp
machine or know someone who is, don't try this at home kids!
74" Flatty. Will the knuck fit?
A: Yes, the frame mounts are identical. However, knucklehead-style tanks may need to be
used to clear the knuckles on the motor. (Thanks to FHP for answer)
A: Yes, the frame mounts are identical. However, knucklehead-style tanks may need to be
used to clear the knuckles on the motor. (Thanks to FHP for answer)